SB 14.01.31

3 hours today.  Cut relief notches in HS-602 forward spar halves.  Match drilled the HS spar web stiffeners to the HS-602.  And, marked the center lines on all HS forward spar and rib flanges in preparation to match drill the skin to the substructure.

Cutting relief notches per the service bulletin.

Cutting relief notches per the service bulletin.

Relief notch

Relief notch

Just checking that all the holes to be drilled look like the ones in the drawing in the service bulletin.

Just checking that all the holes to be drilled look like the ones in the drawing in the service bulletin.

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Head scratching, and shop cleaning

Was going to jig up the horizontal stab like the Orndorff video.  But, something got me scratching my head.  The two HS-608 mid-ribs, and 2 HS-405 ribs, between the front and rear HS spars are not match-drilled to the rear spar.  But, the pilot holes for those ribs come pre-drilled (the ones for the 2 HS-606 tip ribs do not).  So, it seemed the best way would be to lay out the center line on the rear facing spar flanges, and match drill them to the rear spar from the back side.  With the rear spar in the jig, that’s not possible.  And, to assemble the horiz. stab skeleton, all the fastener points are readily identified, so jigging really isn’t necessary until I have to match-drill the skins to the skeleton (older non-prepunched kit).  So, thats what I worked on today.  Scratch’n an a-figur’n. Oh, I did get the 2  tip ribs and one of the mid ribs drilled to the rear spar.  And, I cleaned up the shop a little.

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Front Spar Progress!

Today, after 2 days of reading, worrying, procrastinating, and practicing on scraps, I made the bend!  I bent the HS-810 and HS-814 ears to exactly 6 degrees, using my homemade go-no-go gauge.

Van’s Says make the gauge out of cardboard.  But, I happened to have a scrap piece of laminate laying around.  And, it seemed like the perfect material for this.  I used a good old nav-plotter to lay out the 6 degree angle on the laminate piece, then cut it with a band saw.  And, I smoothed out the cut with the deburring wheel on my bench grinder, checking it for straightness on my counter top.

It worked like a charm and the whole thing was pretty much a non-event.

I also relieve the flanges at the bend lines on the HS-702 front spar halves, then bent them to match, using a block of wood and a pair of vice grips on the edge of a work table.

Not much.  But, that’s as far as I go until I worry over the plans and drawings for the next part of the puzzle.  I’m also going to include the front spar reinforcement from Van’s service bulletin (SB-14-01-31).

Measuring the bend angle on one side of the HS-810 with hand-made

Measuring the bend angle on one side of the HS-810 with hand-made “go-no-go” gauge.

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HS front spar with bends

HS front spar with bends

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About my QB wing kit

I purchased a QB wing kit from a guy down in Portland, OR last year.  They’ve been sitting in the garage, patiently waiting for me to get my act together and finish the empennage.

I found the kit on Barnstormer’s and contacted the seller.  The price was pretty good.  And, I expect that it will be quite a time savings, not to mention a huge $avings compared to buying a new QB kit.  Plus, it gives the feeling of having rescued another derelict from the salvage heap.

Quick Build Wings purchased 2nd hand.

Quick Build Wings purchased 2nd hand.

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Back in the shop finally!

It has been a trying and sometimes painful 14 months since I put the airplane project on hold.  But, I’m finally working on the airplane again.  I’d started on the horizontal stab front spar last week.  The spar halves were the HS-602 parts that originally came with Kit#80566 (1998).  They were not the pre-punched style.  And, in trimming the flanges back the 4 7/16″ from centerline, I made a mistake by cutting through the relief notch on one side at the bend line.  So, after a little research I saw that the newer HS-702 HS front spar halves are pre-punched and come with the flanges already trimmed back to the bend line.  At $20 apiece, they are an easy replacement that come with a little time-saving feature- money well spent!

Old HS-602 front spar halves with bend lines marked.

Old HS-602 front spar halves with bend lines marked.

New HS-702 spar halves clecoed with HS-810 and HS-814.

New HS-702 spar halves clecoed with HS-810 and HS-814.

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Back in the Saddle

Got back from my trip to Talkeetna, Alaska.  Check out my trip report that will go in the “Flying Adventures” page.

Today, I finished riveting the Vertical Stab.  I have one boogered up rivet on the aft edge, next to the center hinge bracket that will have to get fixed.  I drilled the rivet out, twice!  Now the hole is so big, I think I’ll have to fix it with a large blind rivet.  I just can’t seem to get anything on it to set a solid rivet, because of the hinge bracket.  Its funny that is the only rivet I seem to have this problem with.

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Work Stoppage and some reworked Items

Haven’t posted in a few days.  Never the less, I’ve been pretty busy.

My daily driver blew up on the freeway, doing 65mph!  Results: 1 new car, less in the old cash reserve, and less monthly discretionary budget.  Just as well; the Subee was old beyond her years and a maintenance monster.

I decided to enlist some help in riveting the skin on the vertical stab.  I just don’t have the reach to get those rivets in the middle of the first side.  My neighbor, Cody, will come over tomorrow night to help for a couple of hours.

In the meantime, I reworked 4 AN470AD4 rivets in the vertical stab skeleton that I wasn’t happy with.  I really wrestled with the idea of drilling these rivets out.  With the manufactured heads located on the flanges of the VS center rib, it was difficult to get the drill bit perfectly centered.  That is, until I remembered the old Matco 90 degree, narrow head drill I rescued from Boeing surplus years ago!  The thing works like a dream.  It uses short, threaded drill bits.  And, it works great for this application.

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The rivet on the right is definitely not up to specs!

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Other ugly rivets drilled out. That elongated center hole is gonna be a pain!

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Boeing Surplus find rediscovered (in my old “taco-wagon”)

I also got the new HS-810-1 and HS-814-1, horizontal stab front spar stiffeners from Vans.  The “-1’s” are pre-drilled and only need to have the ends radius and tapered.  I was able to get that done with acceptable (although no perfect) results.

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Horizontal Stab front spar stiffeners

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Vertical Stab, …Almost!

Got the VS skin drilled onto the skeleton, all parts deburred, dimpled and primed.  But, I’m taking the night off tonight because banging rivets and making loud noises would not be in my best interest right now.  I’ve spent almost 10 hours working on airplane parts in the last week.  Good progress.  But, I still feel like I should have this vertical stab done and have gotten back to the horizontal stab I started back on May 1st (before the first epic fail).

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Vertical stab in the jig, at “porcupine” stage.  Now to take it all apart and finnish de-burring, dimpling, and then get everything primed.

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Its so gratifying to see that witness mark on the very last rivet hole.  A testament to the fact that all the parts are lined up the way they should be.

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Parts all de-burred, dimpled and primed.

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Rear spar channel and stiffener riveted together.  Took a little time to practice my back-riveting before tackling this part.  It definitely paid off!

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Vertical Stabilizer jigging

As I’ve said, my empennage kit is 15 years old.  So, I don’t have the benefit of match-hole technology that the newer kits have.  The skin on the vertical stab is pre-punched.  But, the ribs and forward spar are not.  So, the skin has to be drilled onto the spars and ribs.  I chose to follow the method demonstrated by George Orndorff in his video series on building RV 6/7/8 kits.

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This is how it looks as of this morning.

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Here, the vertical stab is in the jig.  And, I’m getting the skeleton lined up by using the dimensions called out in the drawings and by using my Mk-I, Mod-0 eyeballs to spot the sharpie lines I drew on the ribs and forward spar.

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While trying to puzzle out exactly the best way to flute a rib that was slightly bowed, I stumbled upon the discovery that, in good light, the fluting locations are reflected onto the flanges of the part if I match it up with the full-size drawing.  For the actual fluting, I followed the method shown in the EAA “hints for homebuilders” video at http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1786897202001 .

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Doh! Big Mistake…

So, I got ahead of myself in fabricating the forward spar reinforcing angles, HS-810/HS-8-14.  The instructions said to drill all pilot holes.  I thought this included the holes 1/2″ outboard of centerline and the holes for the two rib locations.  I was under the impression that the notation on the drawing was about “final-drilling” to size.  But apparently not.  After rewatching the Orndorf video on this segment, I saw that the holes are undrilled when the fwd spar gets riveted together.  A search on Vansairforce.com confirmed that these holes (even pilot holes) should not be drilled until being match drilled in place. 

Oh well.  I’ve ordered new parts.  And, I’ve moved on to the Vertical Stab while I’m waiting for them.

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